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Excerpts from 1,270 word article
SALVADOR CELEBRATES ITS AFRICAN HERITAGE - ESPECIALLY ON
TUESDAYS
Salvador, Bahia: Arrive in Salvador on a Tuesday and you'll quickly see why
Brazilians consider it their country's most exciting vacation destination. I'm with
them, for not only is this the most African city in the Americas but it is the only
place I know where everyone parties on Tuesdays as well as weekends. On other
days it presents itself as a prosperous upbeat place of modern buildings, tree-lined
avenues, well-maintained parks and great beaches......
Leaving the beaches I passed a
sign proclaiming "Bahia, The Land
of Happiness" describing the State
of which Salvador is capital. (It also
explained why the locals call
themselves Bahians.) Soon I came
upon a landscaped park where a
lake contains statues of the Orixas
who make sure the place stays
happy. They represent candomblé
Gods brought by African slaves,
whose labour in mines and plantations produced the colony's wealth. When the
slaves were no longer allowed to follow their own religions they matched each of
their own deities with a Catholic saint in a practice known as syncretism. And
when their African martial arts were banned, they disguised them as an acrobatic
dance called capoeira. Now this is a national art form, an influence reflected
even in Brazil's brilliance on the soccer field.
CHURCHES ATTRACT MIXED CONGREGATIONS
Salvador's Afro-Brazilian culture still has enormous impact on life in this
community where 80 per cent of the
population have at least some African
blood. Catholic churches here are
outnumbered three to one by
Candomblé temples, and many
devout people are comfortable to
worship in both.
This is no more apparent than at the
church of Nossa Senhor do Bonfim
(Our Lord of Good Ending)
frequented by worshippers of both the
Catholic and candomblé faiths. Built
in 1754, it is a popular site for religious pilgrimages. Pope John Paul 11 has
conferred a rare honour upon it by coming to pray here on two occasions.
Outside, vendors sell bunches of coloured ribbons as good luck charms.
Representing candomblé gods they bear names of syncretized Catholic saints and
are blessed by the clergy. But the mixture of piety and paganism (along with
superstition) goes far beyond this. Africa influences an entire way of life in the
realms of music and dance, and even dress. Bahians carry loads on their heads as
people do in Africa, while inshore fishermen use dug-out canoes. The university
curriculum includes Yoruba, a dominant West African language. Restaurant
menus feature such items as caruru, vatapa and acaraji, Yoruba names for spicy
dishes from Nigeria and Senegal.
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