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BONAVENTURE ISN'T STRICTLY FOR THE BIRDS.
By Pam Hobbs
Percé, Que:- It was a most endearing meeting, in this cramped
and noisy place. From a thousand or more who looked pretty
much the same to me, he spotted her without hesitation. Striding
purposefully through the crowds, nudging aside his neighbors, he
stood before his mate for life, mother of his children. With wings spread wide they stood face to face, rubbing beaks and emitting
what I interpreted as joyous squawks, performing the spectacular
ritual of adult gannets reunited after one of the pair had been
away. Their greeting finished, she sank back onto her nest, while
he went off to mingle with the hoards of gannets inhabiting these
cliffs of Bonaventure Island off the coast of Percé in the rugged
Gaspé region of Québec.
The gannetry,
believed to be the world's
largest, is just one reason
to come to this pleasant
island, with a surface area
of little over two and a half
square miles (6.5km²),
quiet beaches, and derelict
houses that prompt
thoughts of hardy
individuals who lived here
two or three hundred years
ago.
In summer months, boats leave Percé wharf every 20
minutes for a ride around the famed arched rock, and on to
Bonaventure. Three quarters of an hour after leaving the
mainland, they stop at this tiny island, where passengers are
invited to go ashore or return directly to Percé. My advice is that
you come in early morning, wear good walking shoes and bring a
picnic lunch. In fine weather, you will want to spend the best part
of a day here.
Soaked in summer sunshine,
Bonaventure is an enchanting place,
its grey weathered wood buildings
contrasting with a deep blue sky,
and cliff-top meadows smothered
in daisies.
Limestone cliffs are skirted by
beaches, often deserted in spite
of the countless tourists off-
loaded throughout each day. Guided
walks are conducted with commentary
in French or English.
The 1,200 word article explores the history of this site and
describes the gannetry, ending with:I
F YOU GO:- Percé is 480 miles (772km) from Québec City, via
autoroute 20 to Rivière du Loup, thence rte 132, which circles
the Gaspé peninsula. Boats ply frequently during the summer
season between Percé and Bonaventure Island and you may catch
any boat back, The last departure for Percé is 4.30 p.m. and
overnight camping is not permitted.
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